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Different kinds of Gems

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Basically there are two kinds of gemstone: precious and semi-precious. Precious stones are diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. In some cultures, black opal and imperial jadeite jade are considered precious gems. If you are going to get involved in the buying and selling of gems then the precious stones are the ones to make money out of. Semi-precious stones include amethyst (purple), citrine (yellow), peridot (Green), aquamarine (blue), Topaz (all colors), and garnet (red). Semi-precious stones are considerably cheaper than precious, and often used in the manufacture of cheap 9-carat jewellery or marcasite silver jewellery .

The quality of the gem also determines whether it is considered precious or semi-precious. There are gemstones, such as garnets and tourmalines, that are more beautiful, rare, durable, and costly than the 'precious' gems. A small, fine quality deep green garnet called tsavorite would be more costly than a low-quality emerald; a brilliant red spinel more costly than a low or medium quality ruby. And a rare, brilliant, “neon” tourmaline from Paraiba, Brazil, will cost as much or more than a rare Burma sapphire.

There is no precise defintion of what a 'gemstone' is. It is defined largely by the rarity and value of the stone. Some well known semi-precious gemstones are:

Remember your 4C's when you buy gemstones - COLOR, CARAT, CLARITY, and CUTTING.

Color is all important in colored gems. The "best color" is complex, being a combination of hue, saturation and tone. Don't assume that the darker the color, the better the stone. That isn't true: color can be too dark, like some rubys that look more brownish or orangish red than blood red. The more bright and vivid the color, the better. In precise grading terms: clear, medium-tone, intense and saturated primary colors are the most preferred. Muted colors and colors between hues, which you might find very attractive, are usually less expensive. Look at the color in different kinds of light.

Clarity is the color and 'clearness' of the gem. Hold it up to the light. Can you see lots of black specks (inclusions). Clear transparent gemstones with no visible flaws are the most valued. There is no standardized grading system for clarity: it varies by gem variety. With colored gemstones, if the inclusion doesn't show in the face up position, it generally doesn't matter at all. (unlike diamonds which are graded upside-down at 10x magnification). Some varieties, notably emerald and red tourmaline, are very rare without inclusions of some kind so the price structure takes this into account. Pastel colored gemstones show inclusions more, so they generally detract more from the value for pale stones. In rare cases, inclusions can increase value. Special effects like the star in star sapphire and the eye in cat's-eye chrysoberyl are caused by inclusions. Inclusions can also be a birthmark, proving that a gemstone is from a particular place. So "horse-tail" inclusions in demantoid garnet make it more valuable because they prove it came from Russia.

Carat is the weight of the stone. Gemstones are sold by weight, not by size. Prices are calculated per carat. A carat is one-fifth of a gram. Some gems are denser than others so the same weight stone may be a different size! For example a one-carat emerald is a bigger than a one-carat ruby. Just like diamonds, the carat weight also affects the price: large gemstones are more rare, so the price per carat is higher. But practically, this doesn't make much of a difference with common gems like amethyst, citrine and blue topaz. It really kicks in for ruby, emerald, sapphire, alexandrite, tsavorite and demantoid garnet, Paraiba and rubellite tourmaline, spinel, and pink topaz. Anything above 100 carats is classed as a collector's stone. Far too big to be mounted in a necklace or ring, it's a stone that you keep wrapped up in cotton wool, and get out on special occasions.

Finally, the cutting. Are all the facets of the stone equal and well-cut, giving the gem life and sparkle. A gemstone with a good cut is something that may not cost more but can have a positive or negative effect on it's beauty. A well-cut faceted gemstone reflects the light back evenly across its surface area when held face up. If the stone is too deep and narrow, areas will be dark (aka extinction). If it is too shallow and wide, parts of the stone will be washed out and lifeless (aka window). The best way to judge cut is to look at similar gemstones next to each other. Dark areas in the stone are caused by light leaking out the back of the stones because the angles aren't right. Look for a stone having even brilliance. But the cut affects the pattern of light you will see.

Buying gemstones in Thailand

Bangkok is one of the world's prime markets for gems and jewelry; from diamonds to emeralds and all in between. Gems are sent from all over the world for cutting and dealers from around the globe buy at the markets in Chantaburi and Maesai. Maehasak (between Silom and Suriwong) is the hub of wholesale and manufacturing. If you want gems and colored gemstone jewelry, Bangkok may be the best place in the world to buy it. Colored gems, especially ruby, spinel, sapphire, jadeite, and peridot, are a bargain in Thailand. If you are astute and prepared to haggle you can probably buy a gem for a quarter or a fifth of what you would pay in the west. Buy them for your own use or as a gift only; the retail price of gemstones is somewhere between 3 to 5 times the wholesale price, so its hard to see how you could sell them at a profit.
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Buying gem stones is more complex than buying gold. Each stone is different and it is difficult to assess the value. What is a stone worth? It is worth what someone is willing to pay for it and there is no easy way to find that out other than trying to sell it. It is unlikely that you will find any bargains.

According to traditional Thai beliefs it is lucky to wear certain gemstones according to the day on which you were born.

Your date of birth:


You were born on a

Your lucky gemstone is

Your lucky color is

Bangkok has developed as a world center for the gemstone trade for 2 reasons. Firstly the Thais are brilliant when it comes to cutting the stones from the rough rock. They know how to cut the rough so that the stone has maximum sparkle and beauty. Although India and parts of South America also have large gemstone industries, their artisans are way behind the Thais when it comes to producing a quality stone. The skill of the Thais may be connected to their apprenticeship system. Cutters start working in the factory at the age of about 15. They live in the factory helping to clean it and learning their craft initially by polishing stones. Older cutters teach the boys the secrets of the business.

Secondly Thailand is one of the world leaders in the heat treatment of gem stones. Most ruby and sapphire are heat treated. Monghsu is heated to remove the characteristic blue core.This is an extraordinarily expensive art to learn, and the secrets are generally kept within the family sometimes to a single member. To understand why it is so expensive imagine you are treating a stone worth say $100,000 and you get the temperature wrong: you have rendered the stone worthless.

Diamonds

Diamonds are the easiest gemstone to value as the price is largely set by the de Beers cartel. You can look in the de Beers catalogue to check to price of a diamond of a given caratage and cut. Looking at auctions is another way of checking the price. As with all gemstones be sure the stone has a certificate from a respected laboratory. The best are in Switzerland, but the US also has done good labs. You should be aware the some certificates are fake.

The seven major diamond mining countries of the world: Botswana, Russia, South Africa, Angola, Namibia, Australia, Democratic Republic of Congo.

Artificial diamonds

Scientists have been making artificial diamonds in labs since the 1950s which are chemically identicle to mined diamonds. These have been mainly very small diamonds used for making drill bits and other industrial purposes but now it is becoming possible to make larger diamonds that could be used for jewelry.

Rubies

Rubies, like sapphires, are very difficult to value. A stone might to be $100,000 to one person and $200,000 to another. The key to valuing colored gemstones is to have a great sense of color. If the stone has not been heat treated the price rises hugely. You should be able to ascertain this by checking the lab report.

The use of heating techniques was introduced to improve the color of rubies in the 1970s because of increasing demand for the stones and decreasing supply.

COLOR: think... fire engine red, not burgundy. Pure red, not purplish red.The most valued ruby is pigeon's blood red.

For ORIGIN , Mogok (Burma) is king. Monghsu (Burma) is generally considered inferior to Mogok but some material is quite good. Although you won't find many bargains, buying rubies in Burma is an interesting experience. Bangkok used to be the place to buy Burmese rubies, as it was only possible to enter Burma on a 24 hour visa, but over the last 10 years Burma has opened up hugely and its easier now to go straight to Rangoon. As a rule of thumb dealers in Burma will usually start asking 50-100% times the price they expect to get. You should be aware that many African rubies are passed off as Burmese.

In Thailand rubies are found in Pong Nam Ron, Bo Rai and Khao Saming in Chanthaburi and Nam Yuen in Ubon Ratchathani. The red rubies discovered in Chanthaburi are known as "Tab Tim Siam" or "Siamese Rubies" and are admired for their dazzling red.

Aside from their color, rubies are also known for their strength (9 on Moh's hardness scale), which makes them an easy stone to care for.

The Thai word for ruby is thap (high tone) thim (mid tone). ma(H) nee(M) daaeng is a red ruby.

Traditionally rubies were used for engagement rings. Red is fire, blood – passion. Women do not paint their lips green, nor do men send their love blue valentines. .It was the highly successful advertising campaign by de Beers in the mid 20th century that convinced the world that 'a diamond is forever'.

Synthetic rubies are used in lasers

 

Sapphires

Blue sapphire should be pure blue without any green or gray, neither too dark or black. The best color for yellow sapphire is dark yellow or golden yellow.

ORIGIN: Sri Lanka is probably the best place.

Sapphires have been discovered in Kanchanaburi, Chanthaburi, Si Saket, Ubon Ratchathani, Phrae, Phetchabun and Sukhothai.

The Thai word for sapphire is nin (mid tone). leuuang sai soht boot raa kham is a yellow saphire. see maawk maehk nin gaan is a blue sapphire.

 

Where to buy gems

Semi Precious Stones

Songwad Road, in Samphantawong, sometimes called Wat Koh, near Chinatown is a good place to buy these stones cheaply.

Precious stones

Mahaesak Road, between Silom and Suriwong in Bangrak, is a safe bet for loose stones if you don't know what you are doing. In fact the whole area at the bottom end of Silom near the river around and in the Jewelry Trade Center are good places to find legitimate gem shops. There are more than 1000 companies dealing with gems and jewelry.

For retail jewelers go to Old Siam Plaza. Try to establish a good relationship with a jeweler and then do all your shopping at same shop.

Beauty Gems and Premier Gems are probably Thailand's biggest gem dealers.

Bidz.com as a useful site for checking prices.

Beads

The best place in Bangkok for turquoise or other similar beads is probably Chatuchak weekend Market (Mo Chit skytrain station). However many of them are plastic so you have to be careful. Nepal, India or China are probably the best places for turquoise. Chiang Mai may be a better bet than Bangkok.

 

Studying gemology in Bangkok

Bangkok, the colored stone capital of the world, is one of the most prestigious and practical place in the world to learn about gemstones. There are 3 main places to study gemology.:

  • The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand located at the Faculty of Science at Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Road. A lot of Thai students study here.


    Will graduating from one of the institutes be enough to make you into a gem trader? Probably not. The gem business is largely based on long standing relationships between buyers and sellers and it takes time and money to develop contacts. The gem business in Thailand is dominated by Chinese family run firms and knowledge and contacts are passed down from one generation to the next. Having a diploma from a prestigious institute won't be enough to let you break in.

Avoiding scams and fakes

The gem scam usually takes the form of a friendly stranger striking up a conversation with you and luring you to a gem shop which is offering a 'one day only' sale or something similar. They will sometimes claim to be from the Tourism Authority of Thailand or some government department. Be aware that:

  • The Thai government and/or the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) does not own, sponsor, promote, endorse or authorize any gems stores in particular and anyone who tries to tell you otherwise is lying. If someone recommending you buy gems from a particular shop tries to show proof that they are from the TAT the ID is bound to be fake. It's easy to get a fake ID in Thailand.

  • It is not really in the Thai culture for a lone person to approach a stranger and start a conversation. Therefore if you are approached by a lone individual, particularly one who speaks English well, be very wary.

  • Real gem shops very rarely offer sales, and 'one day only' or 'export special' deals are definitely a scam.

  • It is impossible, even for a qualified gemologist, to tell the difference between genuine gems and a clever cut-glass fake without the proper equipment. If you buy without getting the gems tested independently, you are buying solely on the word of the shop. Also note that in the mid 90's, Russia perfected a system of using thermo-nuclear energy to produce a synthetic material that was identical to amethyst rough rock (at least to the naked eye). Thousands of fake amethyst stones flooded the Bangkok market, and there are a lot of moody gems around. No one is going to pay to have a semi-precious stone tested (it's totally impractical cost-wise), so many gemstone dealers are probably passing on this hookey gear to unsuspecting customers.

    It's worth buying only from members of the Thai Jewel Fest Club, which is a non-profit orginization set up by the TAT, the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association, the police and the government. Members have to abide by a code of practice, which includes the provision of at least 80% refunds up to 45 days after purchase. The members are all reputable vendors and though it is impossible to guarantee there won't be any problems, it is much, much less likely than at a random shop a stranger takes you to. The Tourism Authority of Thailand has more information and a list of members of the Jewel Fest club. A branch of TAT will also be able to give you more information.
  • Gem Auction in Burma

    Burma is to hold a special gem sale in Rangoon starting on July 4 to boost foreign exchange earnings, the Central Committee for Sponsoring the Special Sale of Gems, Jade and Pearls announced

    Domestic gem traders are being urged to display their quality gems, jade and pearls at the special show scheduled for July 4. The foreign exchange proceeds from the sale will be designated as legal export earning, the sponsor said.

    It will be held as a "competitive bidding system," presumably meaning auction.

    The country's special gem sale for both foreign and local gem merchants is the third of its kind introduced four years ago in addition to the annual and mid-year ones.

    During the last special gem sale held in June, 2006, nearly 1,500 foreign and local gem traders bid on the available jade, gemstones and pearls.

    At the 13-day, 44th annual gems emporium held last March, 3,652 lots of jade, gems and pearl were sold out of nearly 6,000 such lots displayed. They gained a record high 148 million euros ($185 million).

    That emporium was attended by 3,421 merchants, 2,000 of them foreign. The foreigners came mostly from China, the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region and Thailand.

    Burma began its gem shows in 1964. The mid-year one was first held in 1992 and the special one was introduced three years ago.

    Burma, a well-known world producer, is the source of nine gems - ruby, diamond, cat's eye, emerald, topaz, pearl, sapphire, coral and a variety of garnet tinged with yellow.

    To develop the gem mining industry, Burma enacted the New Gemstone Law in 1995, allowing national entrepreneurs to mine, produce, transport and sell finished gemstone and manufactured jewellery at home and abroad.

    Since 2000, the Burmese government has become involved in the mining of gems and jade in joint ventures with 10 private companies under a profit-sharing basis.

    The military regime will grant 319 new more unexplored jade mining blocks in Kachin state's Moenyin and Sagaing division's Khamhti to local entrepreneurs to encourage jade production, according to reports earlier this year.

    There are six mining areas in Burma under gem and jade exploration: Mogok, Mongshu, Lonkin/Phakant, Khamhti, Moenyin and Namyar.

    Jade sales represent one of Burma's major foreign exchange sources, the fourth largest export earning sector in the fiscal year 2005-06 with $205.47 million, according to state statistics.

    Of the top 10 exporters for 2006-07, dominated by the state sector, the Myanmar Gems Enterprise was third with sales of $296.9 million. Only Myanmar Oil and Gas Enterprise and the Myanmar Timber Enterprise sold more.

    The government's Central Statisitcal Organisation reported that in fiscal year 2005-06, Burma produced 20,390 tons of jade and 28.458 million carats of gems, including ruby, sapphire, spinel and peridot, as well as 177,692 mommis of pearl. The production in the first half of 2006-07 (April-March) went to 10,388 tons from jade, 10.042 million carats for various gems and 56,607 mommis for pearl.

    Burma also is working to establish the first ever gem merchants' association as part of its bid to enhance the development of the country's gem mining industry.

    The Burmese mining sector, which also includes other minerals such as gold and copper, contributes 0.4 per cent to the national economy.

    Links

    www.alteksgroup.com Topaz mine company from Latvia, Europe. They produce sliced topaz stones.
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